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  #11 (permalink)  
Old June 22, 2008, 07:46 AM
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The hole saw work fine on the 180/182. Take your time though, since usually they are designed for wood.
If you need special w/c parts, you can always take a look at Sidewinder Computers. Gary and the gang are a great bunch. Sidewinder Computers - Supplier of High Quality PC Modding and Cooling parts
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Old June 22, 2008, 09:09 AM
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Yep, I suspected it would be fine, the metal on the Coolermaster case I was doing was super thin. Just wanted to put it out there for folks to be forwarned.
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Old June 22, 2008, 11:29 AM
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Word of advice to anyone wanting to buy hoseclamps...get them from tddirect. To my surprise they're actually cheaper online than at CT...at CT they're like 1.09/clamp.

How do you properly flush a new rad? I've seen some people do it with repeated vinegar rinses and final distilled water rinse...that seems like unnecessary, but i dont know. Is hot tap water, followed by distilled water enough?

Last edited by nikitos; June 22, 2008 at 11:58 AM.
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Old June 22, 2008, 09:25 PM
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Update

Well, I got tired of waiting for the rest of the parts to arrive so I took apart the computer, dusted everything off and started to set up blocks and stuff.

It'll never look the same :) :



Took off the plastic film off the Apogee, was pleasantly surprised by the base quality: smooth, very little machine marks:



Decided to go with the plastic barbs that came with the Apogee because the O-rings on those fitted the sockets much better than the metal barbs I have for some reason...oh well safety first. Mounted the block twice with MX-2 to check contact - excellent pressure at the center of the IHS, it appears.




Videocard block next...man the EK full cover block is amazing, the pictures don't do it justice, the thing is beautiful...



First time taking off the stock heatsink on a videocard:



went reasonably well, although I didn't clean off the stock compound around the core, cause it looked like my qtips might have left some residue if I tried to, but the core is shiny so that's good.

Installing the EK block was a bit time consuming, but straightforward; the provided instructions are very good. One thing I'd recommend is not to install the barbs before mounting the block, because it helps to lay it flat to screw in the bolts. Mounted twice as well, good contact, I really hope I didn't crush anything though...oh well, I'll find out in a couple of days I guess.



This is all for now, have to wait for parts now!
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Old June 22, 2008, 10:16 PM
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Mmmmm shiny goodness.... Very nice! Are you sure the metal barbs dont fit well? I use them quite a bit, and I find they install and remove much easier. Also, if you are using a quadcore, you should rotate your CPU block 90 degrees. It will perform slightly better.
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Old June 22, 2008, 10:26 PM
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yep, I read your suggestions regarding GT orientation, Cptn, and (un)fortunately i'm running a puny E2180, so I chose the orientation that would allow slightly easier plumbing.

as far as metal barbs go, I noticed there is a groove for the o-ring the plastic part of the block, which fits the o-ring of the plastic barbs perfectly, while the metal (Swiftech) barb o-ring is slightly smaller.

Oh damn, I shouldn't have done this so early, now I'll be worryin' if I friend anything or not til I can start it up :p

Last edited by nikitos; June 22, 2008 at 10:34 PM.
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Old June 25, 2008, 10:34 PM
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anyone have any suggestions for mounting the Swiftech Microres in the 5.25" drivebay? I've tried using the L bracket, but its really unstable even with a lock washer (ie it spins and slides around).
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old June 25, 2008, 11:02 PM
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I've mounted my Swiftech Micro Res in the 5.25" bay, but I wouldn't do so again.. I don't like the fact that you can't really see your coolant levels unless you take it out. I found myself always taking it out and inspecting it, as it was my first build and I was curious about why everytime when I take it out, the coolant level drops like a centimeter. I think that because I kept on taking it out, the barbs loosened and leaked.. It was all over my DVD drive and it didn't survive the leak..

So, if you really have to mount your res there, I won't stop you, but I would HIGHLY recommend you not to.
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Old June 26, 2008, 08:10 AM
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The way I want to mount it (as indicated by the schematic drawing of the loop in the first post), about half of the res sticks out from the bay, so you can see the fluid level and use the fill port...I guess I just might go with a t.
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Old June 26, 2008, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikitos View Post
The way I want to mount it (as indicated by the schematic drawing of the loop in the first post), about half of the res sticks out from the bay, so you can see the fluid level and use the fill port...I guess I just might go with a t.
What are you connecting the angle bracket to? The top of the case?

If it is spinning around the mounting screw then drill two holes and use two bolts. Or maybe small self tapping metal screws if you are pretty sure you will not want to move it and the screws do not protrude into visible space.
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