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Old August 28, 2013, 02:37 PM
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Hello guys. Does anyone know how to remove the ashphalt/glue residue that is left behind on a panel? It's the only obstacle and I should be done after that.

Last edited by hero1; August 28, 2013 at 06:23 PM.
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Old August 28, 2013, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by hero1 View Post
Hello guys. Does anyone know how to remove the ashphalt that is left behind on a panel? I am having that issue with the piece that I added to the bottom panel. It came from the left side panel that had the sound deadening material. It's the only obstacle and I should be done after that.
I'm not 100% sure what you mean but I'm assuming there is remnants of the adhesive left over?

If so check out "Goo Gone". They sell it at Home depot and it works like a charm!
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Old August 28, 2013, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pabz0r545 View Post
I'm not 100% sure what you mean but I'm assuming there is remnants of the adhesive left over?

If so check out "Goo Gone". They sell it at Home depot and it works like a charm!
I just wanted to post fast and take a nap. Long day and you got it right, the remnants of the adhesive left over from removing the ashphalt. I'll go get "Goo Gone" tomorrow. I can't wait to paint it and mount everything else. Thanks Pab

EDIT: Finishing making fan mounting holes tomorrow for the bottom 360 mm rad then make the PSU mount for the back of the case (proving very challenging) then painting. Still not sure what to do with the front door

Last edited by hero1; August 28, 2013 at 07:19 PM.
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Old August 29, 2013, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Pabz0r545 View Post
I'm not 100% sure what you mean but I'm assuming there is remnants of the adhesive left over?

If so check out "Goo Gone". They sell it at Home depot and it works like a charm!
The name turned out to be Goof Off. Very unpleasant chemical and vaporises pretty fast. Luck I was working in the garage so had the door open.Phew! All the adhesive and left over ashphalt material are gone. I will be finishing putting the case together tomorrow and painting it. I can't wait to be done and upload pictures of the finished product sometime next week.

EDIT: it turns out that I bought the wrong solution. It worked like a charm but it it is so toxic that I will never touch it again. Irritated my lungs, throat and nose and gave me a headache. Then I got scared about the fact that it can cause cancer. One time use and now I have to despise the remaining solution properly. Also, Goo Gone has the same effects as I found out after reading the MSDS files

Last edited by hero1; August 30, 2013 at 03:35 PM.
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Old September 2, 2013, 04:15 PM
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Done moving. Resume the build tomorrow. PSU mounting has been made. Couple of pictures coming. Stay tuned

EDIT: I am still thinking about how to modify the front of the case. I want to retain the door and change up the front panel which is plastic. I am thinking about using an aluminium panel and have 3 x 120/140 mm intake fans and have only 2 5.25" bays left for ODD and fan controller. Any suggestions?

Last edited by hero1; September 3, 2013 at 12:03 PM.
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Old September 4, 2013, 01:24 PM
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So this is what I have for the bottom panel so far. Will be working later on the PSU mounting and painting tomorrow
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Old September 4, 2013, 02:37 PM
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small piece of advice the next time you have to drill a hole through metal like that. Screw a piece of 2x6 or 2x4 (which ever is larger than the hole you are drilling) mount the wood via the fan screw holes. This will stop the hole saw from bouncing around all over the place and give you more control. It's very challenging to core a nice hole through thin metal as the blades on the hole saw wanna bounce all over the place. Duct tape helps a little too... keeps the scratches to a minimum. Bondo should clean that up nicely though if you want to spend the time on it.

Alternatively (if money were no object) you could get a hydraulic style hole punch. Electricians and plumbers use them on commercial jobs to put nice clean holes through steel studs. I think MPCtech posted something about this in the HOW TO forum.
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Old September 4, 2013, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by clshades View Post
small piece of advice the next time you have to drill a hole through metal like that. Screw a piece of 2x6 or 2x4 (which ever is larger than the hole you are drilling) mount the wood via the fan screw holes. This will stop the hole saw from bouncing around all over the place and give you more control. It's very challenging to core a nice hole through thin metal as the blades on the hole saw wanna bounce all over the place. Duct tape helps a little too... keeps the scratches to a minimum. Bondo should clean that up nicely though if you want to spend the time on it.

Alternatively (if money were no object) you could get a hydraulic style hole punch. Electricians and plumbers use them on commercial jobs to put nice clean holes through steel studs. I think MPCtech posted something about this in the HOW TO forum.
Thanks for the advice mate. I it clamped down. I tried to have it mounted on a piece of wood but it was not working as the drill would stop and kick back. I use a 4" hole cutter instead of a 4.5" and that meant I had to use my jigsaw to correct the holes. I acquired a 4.5" hole cutter and I might replace the bottom panel. I have it all cleaned up, those photos were taken before the clean up.
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Old September 5, 2013, 12:39 PM
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Smile Rectified the bottom panel situation

So today I took half an hr and worked on the bottom panel. I wish I had just gone ahead with the rectangular cut and mounted the bitspower rad guard instead of cutting circles. Anyways, I went ahead and redid it using the bitspower as a guide. I am pleased with it and might touch here and there with a filer. I took a picture of the right hand panel to show the colour that I am working with.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old September 5, 2013, 12:56 PM
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great looking rad panel

the color is hot!

nice work!
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