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  #41 (permalink)  
Old December 28, 2011, 06:04 PM
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I'm still waiting for the paint to dry properly on my standoffs, so I figured it was time to tackle those unsleeved wires you saw in the unpainted fan controller pic. While I know more and more folks are taking the time to go for a full sleeving mod, I'll just stick with standard heat shrink. It's black and ulitarian which is just fine for this build. A quick trip to Princess Auto and I've got myself some new toys... Best of all, the heatgun was on sale without a sticker to indicate it... cost me $24 vice the $50+ I was expecting. The mini-screwdriver / dental pics are for mangling the plug contacts in order to get the wires off, and the split loom might come in handy for grouping bundles of wires together. I'm by no means an expert on getting those pesky contacts out without the proper tools, so rather than give anybody bad advice as to how to get them off.... let's just assume I got them off with a minimum of blood letting, and only minor cursing on my part....... ;)





Both the fan controller and pump wiring got the heatshrink treatment. If you haven't used heatshrink before, practice on a few scrap wires, and expect the finished product to be a bit stiffer than you'd expect from retail sleeving. That said... it's not only less expensive, but I'd suggest it offers better protection against chafing. The little bit of split loom you see on the molex connectors are in use because the bloody molex pins always drive me batty trying to get them off in spite of having tools which are supposed to be tailor made for them... much easier to use the split loom than beat my head against the wall.... ;)






Cables installed and partially routed / tied off. Not sure, but I might decide to use split loom to bundle the assorted cables into two lines. That's all for this evening (I promise this time.... ;) ). Hopefully, tomorrow night will be the start of the WC loop proper.
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Old December 28, 2011, 06:10 PM
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Normally I hate split loom, but with this case I think it works well, I say bundle those wires and splitloom them.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old December 29, 2011, 12:52 AM
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I wanted to originally do an AMD rig using this Case!!! With similar parts actually... Looks amazing!! =D
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Old December 30, 2011, 12:49 PM
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Now we're getting somewhere.... finally got the hardware together and painted to do the res install.








There you have it!!!! 4 holes drilled in the rear of the case, and a few hours with those turnbuckles I mentioned earlier, and we're done the res mount. I'm quite pleased with how this part of the build finally turned out. The bands around the res are a bit off cocked as I'm not tightening it down until after I've got the pump location / tubing mapped out (not sure if you can make it out, but they're currently secured with rubber bands.... ;) ), but everything fits the way I wanted it to, and it's going to be really easy to remove the res in order to keep it as the highest point in the loop when I go to fill it.
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Old December 30, 2011, 01:32 PM
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Very tempted to come see this in person next time I'm over not visiting my sister. Looks great SS
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Old December 30, 2011, 03:44 PM
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Heh... Members are always welcome to give me a shout if they're going to be in town. I'd be pickled pink to meet up for some grub, or even better yet to throw on a pot of java. :)
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Old December 30, 2011, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sswilson View Post
Heh... Members are always welcome to give me a shout if they're going to be in town. I'd be pickled pink to meet up for some grub, or even better yet to throw on a pot of java. :)
LAN PARTY!
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Old December 30, 2011, 06:23 PM
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I'm not sure we've got all that many folks out this way..... ;)
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Old December 30, 2011, 09:49 PM
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Just a few quick pics of the loop roughed in.

Quite a few changes to the config... I took a fit and swapped the bottom mount YLs for top mount (deeper) 2K RPM scythe fans drawing fresh air in. I'll have to get a few shots of the clearances with the larger fans.... there's room for me to swap memory out without having to remove the rad, but it's an "interesting" access point, and it's pretty tight. I've also moved the rad fittings to the rear of the case rather than the front.

It's not a tight loop by any means... my main motivator was the ability to easily reposition the large res for filling/draining. Configured the way it is, there's plenty of tubing for me to be able to make the res the absolute highest point in the loop even though the rad is top mounted. I also wanted to ensure that I'd have no problems getting SLI'd / Crossfired Vid cards in and out through the tubing. While we're on the subject of SLI'd vid cards.... I guess I'm not going to get my discrete audio after all... I'd forgotten that the lower SLI card blocks the PCI slot... maybe I'll double check to ensure that the last PCIe slot can do 1X with 2 SLI'd cards and invest in a new format card.

Heh... looking at the pics, that 3/8 tubing looks kinda puny.... almost makes me want to bump it back up to 1/2", but then I remember how much easier working with 3/8" is, and I come back to my senses..... :)

Hopefully I'll be able to get the fittings tightened and lines clamped tomorrow during the day so that I can get a good 8 hour leak check done over new year's eve.
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Old December 31, 2011, 03:31 PM
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Got around to setting up the loop for leaktesting. On the left is what I meant by being able to take the res out in order to make it the highest point in the loop... I can either do it this way with the case on the side, or if I wanted to, I could leave the case upright and put the res up on a box or something. Either way it's a lot easier to fill the loop when the res is at the absolute highest possible point.

This is a slightly different config than the roughed in loop from last night. The threads in the acrylic base of the res did not mate well with the shorter threads on the fesser 45 deg rotating adapter (seems to me I ran into something similar the last time I set up a loop with that res.... wish I would have remembered that.... ;) ). After cleaning up the water from the leak, and swapping in a longer threaded straight barb we're back in business and have been leak testing in place (R/H pic) for the last 7 or 8 hours.







For those of you who haven't built a loop yet, the process of initially filling it is fairly simple, but for safety's sake must be carried out without any kind of power being applied to any hardware other than the pump itself. Another thing to keep in mind prior to applying power is that the pump must not be allowed to run dry... there must always be a supply of water from the res otherwise you might destroy the pump.

With this in mind, either get yourself a second PSU, wait until your loop is done before you install your PSU, or (if your PSU is already installed in the case) ensure that you disconnect all other power connections to the motherboard, and every other piece of powered hardware other than fans... you don't want to fry the rest of your equipment on the off chance that a leak causes the PSU to short out.

Easiest way is to get a second PSU... having a switch on it makes it a lot easier, otherwise you'll be unplugging it every time you want to refill the res, or will need to get a power bar with a switch). You'll also need a fan power adapter if your pump doesn't connect directly to a molex connector.

Once that's done, you'll need to enable the PSU to operate without being plugged into the motherboard (ensure the power switch is off first, and leave it off for now). This is done by shorting out the green wire on the 20/24 pin PSU plug with any of the black wires on the same plug (there's one right beside the green wire) which tricks the PSU into thinking that it's got a functional motherboard plugged into it. A metal paper clip works perfectly.

Now that power is available to the pump, we're ready to fill the loop and leak test it.....
  1. Ensure that the res is as high as possible WRT the rest of the loop, and that its outlet is feeding the pump.
  2. Fill the res ensuring that liquid flows down to the inlet of the pump.
  3. Power on the PSU, and be ready to turn off the switch as soon as the res starts to run dry.
  4. Refill the res and repeat until water starts entering the inlet of the res from the rest of the loop.
  5. Close the res and start running your leaktest (I do about 20 minutes in situ, and then put the res into it's normal position for the full leaktest)
  6. After a period of time running your leaktest (I typically do a minimum of 4 hours worth of leaktesting on a new loop), check the res levels and top up if necessary... you'll be forcing out air from the system so it's normal for the res level to drop.
On a side note... some of you might notice the blackened / burnt pins on that PSU plug.... that's what happens when you fold 4 non PCIe plug powered GPUs on the same board 24/7. The current draw for the PCIe slots apparently goes though those pins... and it's not designed for it.... ;)
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Inwin 904 / Swiftech MCP655-b / Alphacool NexXxos XT45 120 Rad / 2X Scythe GT AP-15 / EK Supreme HF / Dell UltraSharp U2412M

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amd x6 1090t , barb , coolstream rad , fesser , fitting , level , nvidia 560ti , sabertooth 990fx , supreme hf , thermaltake , water cooling , xfx power supply , xt 240

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