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Old December 22, 2011, 05:40 PM
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I have to admit that while I expected to run into a few challenges during the build (something always crops up), not being able to install a full push/pull top mount rad never crossed my mind. The image on the left displays the lack of clearance to install the motherboard with the lower fans installed, while the image on the right shows what I ran into when I tried to install the fans after removing them for motherboard installation. As you can see, while the CPU area wouldn't pose a problem, the memory clearance most certainly does (as does the green/gray camo heatsink over on the left). There is absolutely no way I'm going to be able to use these particular fans for a push/pull install.







This leaves me looking around the house for whatever options I can find.... I've got a pair of 2K rpm high CFM scythes I can run in push config. They're deeper than the YLs, but as you can see from the image there should be more than enough clearance left over from a single vice the two YLs. They put out a lot more static pressure and CFM than the YLs do, but they're loud at high speed, and while I can control the speed with my fan controller, my rig folds 24/7 and thus would probably have them running full bore. Another issue with the Scythes is that I'd have to go shopping for more M3 screws as I've already cut down the ones that came with the rad for deeper fans. :)

OTOH, I've also got some slim (25mm I think) 1800 RPM YLs that might fit in full push/pull, but as it stands I'll have to go digging as I currently can only find 1 of the multitude I know are somewhere around here... :)

I've also got a PA120.1 that'll end up being surplus from the Cosmos S, but again... that was setup for a 1/2" loop and I'd have to pick up some of the non-standard thread PA barbs in 3/8" flavour if I wanted to fit it into this loop.

I guess I'll just go with a standard push for now and see how the temps look. I can alway add either the Scythe fans or the single PA rad if the temps aren't good enough. (I've also got a pair of CM fans from CM hyper 212+ coolers.... those would probably do fairly well in a push config).







Now that I'm over the shock of not being able to install a full push/pull without modification, here's a couple of shots of the PSU installed in the case, as well as the GSkill ram I'm going to be using.



edit: I've got the Rad swapped over to push config, and now there's plenty of clearance. I'd rather have a push/pull, but you work with what you've got, and on the upside, the rad+fans no longer takes up 1/2 of the available window space. (It also looks like the contrasting colours like the ram and motherboard heatsinks are going to show fairly well through the window... ;) ). The image on the right is the original push/pull for comparison.



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Last edited by sswilson; December 22, 2011 at 06:34 PM.
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Old December 22, 2011, 07:31 PM
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If I could make a suggestion...

Put the fans on the top as intake (thus pushing into the radiator). You'll get nice cool air flowing over the radiator rather than warmer case air. Should result in lower temperatures...

Though perhaps the side fan will give enough intake air to negate the effects, but I'm guessing most of the air from the side fan will get warmed up pretty quickly by the dual GPUs.
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Old December 22, 2011, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JD View Post
If I could make a suggestion...

Put the fans on the top as intake (thus pushing into the radiator). You'll get nice cool air flowing over the radiator rather than warmer case air. Should result in lower temperatures...

Though perhaps the side fan will give enough intake air to negate the effects, but I'm guessing most of the air from the side fan will get warmed up pretty quickly by the dual GPUs.
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll probably attempt all different configs (on looks alone, I'm kinda hoping that if I need fresh air from the top I can "pull" it through the rad from the bottom rather than "pushing" it from the top), but your comment about the vid cards is especially germain as the twin frozrs do dump a fair bit of their exhaust within the confines of the case.

If I end up doing that, I'll probably repaint the fan grills red.... ;)
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Old December 24, 2011, 07:38 AM
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Looking good so far, Have lots of fun and continue with the great shots.
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Old December 24, 2011, 08:22 AM
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Today we've got a quick addition to the "bling" associated with the rad fans, and what I hope will be the final design for mounting the res.







Being thwarted on my attempt at installing the red bladed YL's in Push/Pull config on the rad not only affected my cooling plans, it also had an effect on some of the bling design I had in my mind. Being able to view the red blades through the top was something I wanted.

With that in mind, the "anodized metal look" paint called out to me, and after a few quick sprays I'm back to having a hint of red at the top. Having it be a fairly close match to the anodized res will also allow me to use them on the bottom of the rad if I end up using the fans up top for better cooling while not losing the contrast of the red against the black rad.






From day one of starting to think about this build, I've been hunting around for ideas on how to mount the res. The basic idea was that I wanted to use some form of stand-offs to have it "floating" closer to the middle of the case, rather than just being on the same visual plain as every other piece of hardware. I've looked at just about everything from threaded stock with locknuts, to bolts with plastic plumbing tubing as standoffs.... On a whim I picked up these Allen Cap Screws from Princess Auto (I also picked up some wingnuts, but they're probably not going to end up on the build now) and was hoping to find a coupler for 2X #10-24 threaded screws as that was the size which fit through the current mounting bands I've got for the res...... I couldn't find any couplers with that small of a thread, and then I came across these turnbuckles, and off in the background I could hear a choir of angels singing hallelujah!






A quick check verified that the thread was indeed 10-24, and while they were longer than what I wanted, I was sure I could cut them down to size, and since they were aluminum, they'd be a lot easier to work with than a harder metal. Price was $1.30, so 4 for standoffs, and 1 for practice came to well under $10. Here's what I ended up with (still rough draft).......






Quick cut down the middle with a rotary tool cutting wheel.... This actually took a fair bit more work than I thought it would, It's a fair bit of metal. I'm thinking that a jigsaw might do a better job, but the rotary tool works. (although it's not a very clean cut).






A couple of passes with a fairly rough file smooths and straightens the rough edges (gotta love working with soft metal when it comes to filing/grinding... ;) ), but what's this??? It's not threaded internally, and it appears to be a slightly larger diameter (not sure how they make it, but I'm not going to look a gift horse in the mouth.... ;) ) so I should be able to tap it out for a 1/4-20 thread which will provide a more secure mount to the case.








All it takes is a few minutes with my cheepo tap and die set, et voila!!! we've got threads!!!!!!!!






So there we are.... one made to order standoff that not only has the benefit of being easy to cut for fit, it also provides a beefy mount for the case, and a more managable size thread for mounting the res. Still a fair bit of work to do WRT figuring out exactly what lengths I want (I might even end up going with two different lengths so that I can mount it into the 45 deg "joint" between the motherboard area and the 5 1/4 bays), as well as cleanup and painting, but I'm fairly confident this is exactly what the doctor ordered......


edit 27/12/2011: Just a heads up for anybody who might consider using these as standoffs.... I had originally hoped to use both ends of the turnbuckles, but wasn't thinking all that clearly about the nature of turnbuckles... one of the pre-threaded ends is reverse-threaded to allow both ends to open or close by turning the turnbuckle in a single direction. With that in mind... it's fairly important to verify which end you're cutting from or you might end up with the wrong thread on your "good" portion.

I've got all 4 made up, and have already drilled out the holes in the case, and rough fit the standoffs in. All that's left is to get them painted up properly and I'll post the finished product.
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Last edited by sswilson; December 27, 2011 at 01:24 PM.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old December 24, 2011, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JD View Post
If I could make a suggestion...

Put the fans on the top as intake (thus pushing into the radiator). You'll get nice cool air flowing over the radiator rather than warmer case air. Should result in lower temperatures...

Though perhaps the side fan will give enough intake air to negate the effects, but I'm guessing most of the air from the side fan will get warmed up pretty quickly by the dual GPUs.
I have mine set up to draw air in as well. Cool air is drawn in over the rads,and exhausted by the rear exhaust fan. Much cooler CPU temps.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old December 24, 2011, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slik View Post
I have mine set up to draw air in as well. Cool air is drawn in over the rads,and exhausted by the rear exhaust fan. Much cooler CPU temps.
Do you have them as bottom mount or top mounts?
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Old December 27, 2011, 07:49 AM
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Couple of updates for today (maybe more later.... ;) ). HDD/SDD installation into the hotswap bays, and ODD + Fan controller installation up front.







As I've mentioned... much of this build is simply a transfer of current hardware from my old case to the new one. The 120G SDD and WD Black (640G) are already loaded up and ready to go.

The numbered buttons on the front release the hotswap trays, and the lock on the front is functional WRT keeping folks from quickly stealing your HDDS/ODDs. The trays aren't spring loaded, but there is a spring loaded "door" on the bottom of each tray which allows for easy grabbing (just in case somebody left the lock undone... ;) ).






Quick shot of the internal connections for the HDD/ODDs at the back of the trays, and a shot of the rear. Sata power is supplied by the pre-installed cables which have a single molex connecter that they draw from. I have some black w/ white trim 45 deg sata cables which will work in there, but we'll also check to see if a standard straight connector will have any clearance issues with the side door.







2 1/2" drives mount from the bottom, and 3.5" drivers mount from the side using rubber mounted thumb screws. The trays then just slide in and lock into place with a satisfying click.






It's gloss black rather than flat (what I had on hand), but I'm going to try to at least get rid of any obvious white metal. Here's the controller before and after... I've also painted the DVD drive. On a side note.... does it seem strange to anybody that we don't appear to have access to standard PC parts in various colours? I don't know about anybody else... but I'd pay an extra $5 - $10 for a manufacturer to pre-paint things like ODDs.






I wish manuals for cases would come with a little bit more info WRT how parts are supposed to come off. The front panel just pops off, but until you know that, you're afraid to apply too much pressure in case you break off a tab. As you can see... the front panel does indeed pop off for access to the fan and other things........







Once the front panel is removed, we've not got access to the 6 screws to remove this upper side panel in order to get access to the 3.5" bay mounting screws. There are 3 under the front panel, and three just behind it under the main side access door. These pics were taken after the controller was installed, and the final pic shows off a my solution to a slight flaw with this particular mounting method....

Access to the LH mounting screw(s) is from under the upper panel, and that can't be installed with the front panel clipped into place as the three screws are underneath the front panel.... the 3 1/2" bay opening is too tight to fit over this particular controller without what appears to be enough force to damage the controllers front plate so the controller can't be installed first, and then have the front panel clipped into place once the side panel is secured.

Not sure if you understood what I was trying to say... but the last image shows my solution... I re-secured the side panel (with the controller out of the case), fit the controller into the front panel and then clipped the front panel to the case while guiding the controller's mounting bracket into place inside the case. I then secured the controller's mounting plate to the r/h side with a standard screw, but had to use a thumbscrew for the L/H because I didn't have access to get a standard screw into it.





There's still a bit of white plastic showing on the rear of the ODD, I had that bit covered with painters tape as I didn't want to take a chance of painting the cct board. I might take a fit later on and attack that bit with a felt marker to complete the effect. On the right, here's the completed front panel.
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Inwin 904 / Swiftech MCP655-b / Alphacool NexXxos XT45 120 Rad / 2X Scythe GT AP-15 / EK Supreme HF / Dell UltraSharp U2412M

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Last edited by sswilson; December 27, 2011 at 08:24 AM.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old December 27, 2011, 02:51 PM
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Plenty of room in the back of this case for installing aftermarket cooling after the motherboard is installed. This particular WB mounts with 4 screws through a heavy backplate secured to the front by standoff posts. Couldn't be easier. That's a blob of IC7 thanks to the HWC store, might as well get the best possible temps and I'm not too worried about being able to read that proc in the future.






I've already installed the AMD mounting hardware so it's just a matter of lining up the holes with the stand-offs and securing the block with thumbscrews. I found it a bit hard to get the WB to slide over the posts, so I'd suggest not tightening the backplate screws until after you've got the holes on the WB lined up. I've currently got the WB oriented with the inlet towards the bottom assuming that it's going to be fed by the pump. If I decide to feed it from the rad I'll probably end up flipping the WB over to allow a cleaner run of tubing.

That's it for tonight, but we're getting there. The standoffs for the res were painted this evening and should be ready for installation tomorrow night or the next. Once the res is installed I can start running tubing and figure out where the pump is going to end up. In all honesty, there's not much actual work left to do. (Other than trying to clean off the fingerprints and old TIM apparently.... those last few pics sure don't make it look like a new build.... ;) ).
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Old December 27, 2011, 05:09 PM
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Quote:

That's it for tonight, but we're getting there. <snip>

Ok, so I lied... I took the time to do the majority of my case cable management. No PSU cables yet, but it's modular so I suspect it won't be that much work to get it pretty.









I'm a firm believer in giving credit when credit is due... too many times all we hear are the bad things about a product, and very little about the good. With that in mind I had to point out these two items......



The first may seem minor, but for the last few years we've seen both case and motherboard manufacturers passing the buck when it comes time for us to be able to hear our post beeps... in the early days, every case had a full fledged speaker that plugged into the motherboard, then came motherboards with speakers during which time case manufacturers apparently decided that they could save a few pennies per case by not including one (made sense since motherboards had them anywise..... ), but of course, then motherboard manufacturers stopped including them on the PCB, and we were left with no post audio beeps at all.



Kudos to TT for including a 50 cent piezo speaker!!!!!



Before anybody looks too closely and calls me to task, I know the PLED plugs are on the wrong block, it was just easier to take the pic like this...... ;)



How many times have you looked at case wiring and wondered what polarity the plugs were? Motherboard manuals all list polarity, but case wiring traditionally left it to you to decide which colour was designated as ground. Once again, Kudos to TT for that little extra step which removes all doubt!!!!










I know my Cosmos S is getting a bit long in tooth, especially when it comes to cable management, but I was completely gobsmacked by how easy it was to come up with professional looking cable management results without using a single zap strap or tie down. Having seen many pics of new(er) cases, I'm aware that this is probably the norm these days rather than the exception, but that shouldn't take away any points from how well this case is laid out for cable management.



Also worthy of note in this image is the fact that this revision of the GT sports a motherboard header for front panel USB3 rather than the rear panel USB3 plugs which shipped with the original version.










Not everything is completely rosy though... a couple of items didn't escape my notice....



Those are awfully pretty colours on the wires for the motherboard headers... but does it make any sense to go to the trouble of sleeving the case cables, if you're going to leave wires exposed at exactly the spot where they're going to be visible? It looks like they went to the trouble of using heatshrink to secure the sleeving, it just wasn't long enough to get reasonably close to the connectors.



Lastly.... I dunno if it deserves a raspberry or not, but how long has it been since any of you has used a sata cable which didn't latch onto the connector? It just feels wrong to leave the connectors sitting there without them being secured in place, almost makes me want to zap strap them on to make sure they don't come loose, but then again, that would just be silly..... ;)
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Asrock AM1H-ITX / AM1 Athlon 5350 / 2X4G Gskill PC3-14900 / Intel 6235 Wi-Fi / 90W Targus Power Brick / 320G Seagate Momentus / Mini-Box M350 / 1X 22" Dell IPS / 1X 22" HP

Last edited by sswilson; December 27, 2011 at 05:17 PM.
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