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Old November 26, 2011, 11:51 AM
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Hi Everyone,

This is the third and final mod of the season for me. I am currently waiting for my philips ambx to arrive for my "AIO AL" (a.k.a. "Nameless" mod also posted on here) and to get my hands dirty on finishing the remake of the horns and other details on "Diabolo" (also posted on here). All three will be on show at the MLP event in Murcia, Spain from the 6th to the 11th of December.

Fallout Cause SP (Slim & Passive) is the succesor to my fav mod of my own creation "Fallout Cause", it was just a paintjob yet it was before I got in to making worklogs and Iīve learnt so much since then that I want to do something new in the same style as FC was.

About the conditions, maybe some of you remember my previous "Mod in a Week" project (a.k.a. Acid Burn), the conditions are the same, Start to Finish happens within a week, starting to day, Saturday 26-11-11 so it will be finished by Saturday the 3rd of December as the latest.

All products needed have to be bought/ordered and received within this period. This of course puts limitations on what I can use but thatīs also part of the fun in this kind of project.

I chose to start today as the products from the sponsor for this project arrived.



Informatica Outlets is simply the must go to website in Spain for great deals on hardware and all needed components to build a PC. So thank you very much Informaticaoutlets.com for your sponsorship on this project!

The products sponsored for this project are:

B-Move Slim II M-ATX low profile case



Intel Celeron Dual Core E3400



ASUS EN210 GeForce



Gigabyte G41MT-S2PT Motherboard



Other products sponsored include a memory card reader for the case, a 250gb seagate barracuda sata2 hard drive and an LG CD/DVD rewriter.

As the name of the project suggests, I am aiming for making the whole computer passive, i.e. no fans, which is why Iīve gone for the ASUS 210 low profile silent GPU, and the celeron intel cpu, as itīs a low end basic cpu, it should be the easiest socket 775 cpu to cool without fans, just a heatsink and decent thermal paste. Other products Iīve acquired today for this project are:

Thermaltake Mini-Typhoon CPU Cooler



2x2Gb Corsair XMS3 1600Mhz (I know this mobo supports up to 1333 but its fine, it will help keep the ram cool to underclock it plus I got a simply great deal on them).



Letīs start then.

1st Day - Saturday 26-11-2011

So Iīve done a quick bench-test to make sure all the hardware is working fine and in deed, no problems whatsoever.

Because the B-Move Slim II is a low profile m-atx case I pressume meant for an HTPC, most aftermarket heatsinks will not fit, but I canīt use the stock intel heatsink because itīs cooling power is virtually non-existant without a fan. So Iīve gone for the thermaltake mini-typhoon as I got a great deal on it and it has a decent copper surface that should keep the cpu cool enough without a fan. So I mounted it with Noctua NX-1 thermalpaste, and went on to do some temp testing without a mounted fan. On idle I get 54c, on stress testing, it doesnīt go over 76c now, this are high temps for such a cpu, but remember itīs being passive cooled and the temps are within safe boundaries so I can check that off the list.

Again because the case is low profile, the cooler will not fit even without a fan, I knew this, hell, I wanted this to happen so I could cut a hole on the side of the case to expose the copper which will add to the final look, if any of you have seen my original Fallout Cause, youīll know exactly what I mean : )

So, 1st, letīs cut the hole:



Now to test it on the case:



Very nice fit! next issue, the cpu coolerīs mounting possition means that the ram doesnīt fit because of itīs cooler, thing is, I like the cooler and rather not have to shave the trimmings off, so, did some measurements, and it would seem cutting off one of the cpu coolerīs pipes is the way to go, so thatīs what I did:





Now for mounting tests:







Now as you can see it fits fine but its in contact with the ram stick by very little, my question is, would this affect anything in any way? would it transfer heat to the ram heatsink or the other way round? Should I trim the ram heatsink?

Thatīs it for today, tomorrow I prep further modification to the case, I am planning on openings and signs of aging and damage caused by rust and the extreme conditions of a fallout post-apocalyptic wasteland.

Thanks for reading! : )

EDIT: Just though Iīd add based on a response on another forum, that I was very carefull when cutting the heatpipe in case I needed to weld it back on due to there being liquid inside that evaporates when heating, but there is nothing inside, with a bit of research I found that, not all coolers have this inside, is this normal? I know this is a low end cooler but, normal? thanks!

Last edited by Luciel; December 12, 2011 at 03:10 PM.
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Old November 26, 2011, 12:01 PM
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I am pretty sure cutting that heatpipe severely cripples the cooling capability of the heatsink. By cutting that one pipe off you are reducing its cooling capability by 33%.
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Old November 26, 2011, 12:05 PM
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Thanks for the comment,

Provably should have mentioned that I ran some tests after cutting the pipe, it only increaded in 1c when idle, 2-2.5c at max use, provably because of the design on the heatsink (mostly did it in case of having to weld it back on and look for alternatives in fitting it. But yeah no problem ; )

EDIT: Just though Iīd add based on a response on another forum, that I was very carefull when cutting the heatpipe in case I needed to weld it back on due to there being liquid inside that evaporates when heating, but there is nothing inside, with a bit of research I found that, not all coolers have this inside, is this normal? I know this is a low end cooler but, normal? thanks!

Last edited by Luciel; November 26, 2011 at 02:32 PM.
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Old November 26, 2011, 06:24 PM
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I agree with ST, I really would not have cut that heatpipe off.
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Old November 26, 2011, 07:13 PM
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Thanks for the comment,

As I mentioned the temps only went up by 3c while stress testing so itīs no biggie, specially on this rig, regardless, I got a 2x1 deal when I bought the heatsink (quite cheaply actually) so if it comes to it, I can always decide to go for the other one (exactly the same) and remove the heatsink from the ram (it simply will not fit with the ram heatsink even with the extra brits trimmed off.
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Old November 27, 2011, 10:57 AM
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2nd Day - Sunday 27-11-11

Today is destruction day, I will make all the destroyed sections of the case to give it that fallout rusted out/cannonīd out look. When I get to the painting part I will aid this look by giving a rust look to all the edges and adding epoxy to simulate edges fusing togueter due to rust (i.e. the grills).

First thing however, is to trim that last lip of the memory module heatsink thatīs driving me mad due to it being in contact with the cpu cooler, so here we go:







Much better, itīs barely noticeable and it is no longer in contact with the cpu heatsink.

Now itīs dremel time, I have to say Iīm surprised at how thick and strong the metal is on this case, specially having in mind itīs a low end case so itīs mostly made out of scrap metal as they tend to do, I went through 2 heavy duty dremel discs in order to complete all the cutting. Once done I plied them backwards for two reasons, first, be it bullets, blunt tools or other, the impact would always be towards the case so it makes sense itīs pushed inwards, the second reason being to prevent sharp edges on the outside.

Here we go:

























And that about does it, I though of adding more as certain parts of the case looked to "clean" if you know what I mean, but I can always add imperfections and artificial damages when doing the paintjob and itīs effects. I think my fav one is the chunk missing from the side that lets you look right in to the cpu heatsink.

Tomorrow I will add similar effects on a small scale to the front of the case obviously very carefully, donīt want to brake any of the hooks that attach it to the rest of the case.

But for today thatīs it. Thank you for reading!
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Old November 28, 2011, 06:34 AM
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3rd Day - Monday 28-11-11 - Update 1

Last night while I was in bed I started thinking about the things I should o today and if I should paint the philips ambx that arrived yesterday evening for the AIO AL project or leave that till I finished this one this saturday. While having the AIO AL project in my mind I though, hmm I wander if I could add a screen to this project, I know I cant integrate it on the side because thereīs no extra sheet of metal, pretty much the side is what the mobo is attached too. I know I canīt use fiberglass to attach it to it because while it would look decent, it wouldnīt have air breathing, and it would just overheat, not to mention adding heat to the sheet and therefore to the mobo and cpu, so that was a no go, figured Iīd scrap that idea and I went to sleep. This morning however while I was looking at the screen and the case it bothered me because I really liked the concept of adding a screen but couldnīt find a way to do it, but I had some spare time so I figured Iīd take the screen apart and see if an idea popped in to my head, as I removed the bezel and platform I clicked, mounts! itīs so obvious, why on earth didnīt I think of that before!

So I took some measurements, did some screen hw mounting within the tower checked cable lenghts, everything checks out. So started to process.

First thing, a straight cut wide enough to pass cables through and use them as a grip for the mounting:



Now it was time to make the hole big enough for the bolt to go through, so figured Iīd use the dremel to make a small starting hole, took forever to go through that, I hadnīt realised just how thick that sheet of metal was. Once done I took a drill, with the right drillbit on started, took me about 40 minutes to do both holes, mainly because I didnīt want to press to hard so not to go spoil the drillbit, eventually got there and installed the first mount:



added some washers and tightened it up:



Now the second one and a test mount:







Feels quite solid, I think I will add some feet on the opposite side so no stress is on the screwed in side, so I will look for some later on.

Now for a proper test mount of the screenīs psu and chipset:





And it fits perfectly:



Thatīs it for now, I will post a second update later today.

Thanks for reading!
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Old November 28, 2011, 12:15 PM
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3rd Day - Monday 28-11-11 - Update 2

Gave everything a final sand down, cleaned it up and gave it a coat of primer:







For some reason the image of the primed front part of the case was corrupted but eh, nothing important.

After waiting drying time I applied 2 coats of glossy black, now I have matt black but I used glossy in order to be able to sand it down so fragments will remain a bit shiny which will add further to that used and thrown about look.





For the devices mounting point since some will be seen through grills or holes I decided to try something new, I watered the paint down more than usual (added an extra part of water) in order to prevent it from being a solid color and included an acrilic brown compound normally used for plastic and metal surfaces that imitate wood (I guess you could call it an artificial wood barnish), I ended up quite liking it!







Thatīs it for today, tomorrow I will be going down to my local paint supplies shop to acquire the colors that Iīll be using and the rust effect compound.

Thanks for reading!
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Old November 29, 2011, 02:05 PM
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4th Day - Tuesday 29-11-11

Today has been a bit slow, this is because I went to buy the yellow I wanted to use for this, and they didnīt have the exact one I wanted in the usual paint I use. So I bought the tone in a paint Iīve never used, itīs still acrilic and is completely fine and compatible with the primer and lacquer I use, itīs purely itīs water/paint/density rations that are different, no idea why. It has ups and downs, the up is that itīs much thicker than the paint I normally use, meaning two coats is enough for a solid color. The down is that it takes 4-5 times longer to dry, which is fine if youīre doing a solid colour, you just get it over with and leave it overnight to cure. But when you want to add other tones on top like I will be doing, itīs annoying because you waste a lot of time on it being ready for the next coat. But aniway doesnīt really matter. I covered the sections I dont want yellow and started painting.

First Coat:



Second and last yellow coat:





Have to wait till tomorrow but the process will be darkening it with a black paint mist so no area has the same tone, sanding it down first to prep for coating and further down to show usage and deterioration right in to the metal. Once done, rusting effects all over the place, more concentrated obviously where there are openings.

Itīs easier to show you than to explain it, but youīll see tomorrow!

Thanks for reading!
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Old November 30, 2011, 09:11 AM
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5th Day - Wednesday 30-11-11 - Update 1

Itīs paint effects day!

First I took off all the masking tape used to make the lines and I descovered I didnīt totally cover one of the grates so paint leeched through to the inside of the case. At first I was like, easy fix, just repaint the inside, end of that. But as I looked at it further, I kind of like the effect, it gives the inside a bit of a glow, so for now Iīm going to keep it:



What do you guys think? Keep it? or repaint the inside black as it was originally?

Aniway, now the the important part, here you have the outside with the exterior masking tape removed:





Now with the interior tape removed and the first two effects done, darkening of the colour in an irregular pattern and with copper dark red drops everywhere to simulate dirt and other paint degradation/damage:





While that is drying I went ahead and started sanding down all corners and curves in the other part of the case to simulate abuse:



and applied the rusting effect:







Repeated the process with the lcd panelīs frame:







Now that itīs dry, I started doing the rust effect to one of the openings on the side of the case, hereīs the first layer:



And the second irregular layer with the second component, essentially giving the final look to the rust on that opening:





Thatīs it for now, a second update later today, thanks for reading!
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