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  #31 (permalink)  
Old February 19, 2008, 07:11 PM
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Damn...had a little problem tonight.

I scooted down to Canadian Tire and picked up a hole saw.

I came home and after about 45 minutes of measuring and checking how my mobo is mounted I was ready to make my cable management holes.

I started drilling with the holesaw (which was the one that was for metal according to the packaging) and snap... the stupid middle drill-bit just snapped off.

:(

BTW, I've decided to go with the spraypaint 3.0charlie. If I do it right with primer and sanding I should be able to get a nice durable finish.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old February 19, 2008, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zlojack View Post
Damn...had a little problem tonight.

I scooted down to Canadian Tire and picked up a hole saw.

I came home and after about 45 minutes of measuring and checking how my mobo is mounted I was ready to make my cable management holes.

I started drilling with the holesaw (which was the one that was for metal according to the packaging) and snap... the stupid middle drill-bit just snapped off.

:(

BTW, I've decided to go with the spraypaint 3.0charlie. If I do it right with primer and sanding I should be able to get a nice durable finish.
Home Depot has the best hole saws I find.

You buy the bit and then you can buy whatever size you want.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old February 19, 2008, 07:49 PM
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You need to buy a bimetal hole saw bit.

If just the guide hole bit broke (the one that looks like a regular drill bit) then just use a titanium drill bit or any normal steel drill bit and drill the guide hole.
Then just stick the hole saw bit in the hole you drilled and let it drill away.
Make sure you keep the bit steady, and let the drill do the work, don't press to hard when drilling steel and don't wiggle the bit too much.
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Old February 19, 2008, 08:28 PM
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Gah! I feel your pain. I absolutely HATE hole saws.

You should be able to get a replacement guide bit for that no problem. I'm assuming you're just drilling thin sheet steel? When working with thin metal it helps to tilt the bit slightly after the guide bit is through so it only starts sawing at one edge, it helps prevent the saw dancing around and makes a cleaner hole. Also apply very little pressure to the hole saw.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old February 19, 2008, 08:32 PM
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Start drilling from one side, then switch over to complete the hole. This makes a clean edge on both sides. And the center bit is replaceable.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old February 19, 2008, 09:04 PM
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All good advice.

So I could use any bit? This one snapped clean in half, so no chance of using it. I have a few regular bits kicking around.

Drill the guide hole first then put the saw back on with the bit just to keep it centred? I'll have to try that tomorrow.

I had heard that 3.0charlie! Thanks for the heads up
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old February 19, 2008, 11:33 PM
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Some arbours use a regular 1/4" bit but usually it's a special part. You want it to be a good fit in the hole otherwise it's very difficult to make a clean cut.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old February 22, 2008, 08:26 PM
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Ok... so finally got the holesaw up and running and got those cable-management holes done:
Not the cleanest, but I'll dremel them some more and then with black paint and the edges covered by rubber tubing, they should look alright. That top one is the one where my holesaw disaster happened... so please, be kind




Now question is, where do I make the holes in this for the tubes to the second rad?


Mr. Postman also brought me a bunch more goodies today... pics of that stuff later.
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Old February 22, 2008, 08:37 PM
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Which second rad? I taught you had a PA120.2, mounted with a Radbox?
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Old February 22, 2008, 08:40 PM
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Well there's been a slight upgrade in the plan brought about by a quite surprising tax return.

There will now be a second loop with the GPUs (and maybe some other stuff down the road).

I originally picked up the TT Armor so I could mount the rad internally. Then I did my taxes and was pleasantly surprised. So I'm going to put on another loop.
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