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  #11 (permalink)  
Old September 25, 2007, 06:04 PM
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3.0 "I kill SR2's" Charlie
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Your setup is similar to one I did a while back with a dual rad, with the hoses routed through the back. I used 2" long bolts to secure the rad to the case. I had to use 90* elbows to prevent the hoses from kinking at the case entry points.

Now I'm trying to figure out a way to hide the hoses within an enclosure that would also house the rad.

S/S Z-brackets are very sturdy - I don't think you'll need 10. My guesstimate would be no more than 6 (4 maybe?), even with the weight of the water inside the rad. How will you attach them to the case? Pop-rivets? Welding (if the case is S/S too)?

Even sturdier brackets would be to join opposite brackets together, thus supporting the whole rad. Brackets would be like so (warning: ASCII art coming up!)

...._______....
__/...........\__


(forget the dots, they're added to have the bracket stay in shape)

I've got plenty of ideas, but not enough parts and cases...

John
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old September 25, 2007, 06:12 PM
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Case is aluminum, so no welding.

I suppose I could use rivets, but I much prefer standard screw/bolt with nuts so that I can easily take it apart if required.

I'm going to try out the SS stock tomorrow so we'll see what kind of stability / strength I get and how many I actually need.

What kind of case are you planning on using? I suppose a person could get some form of modders mesh to make a "rad case" if you didn't want to just do a flush top mount.

I haven't done much metal work with aluminum, but depending on the stock, it shouldn't be too hard to do straight bends if you wanted to make a full shroud similar to what you see on a kooldance topmount setup.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old September 25, 2007, 06:30 PM
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3.0 "I kill SR2's" Charlie
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I usually work with aluminum (being the Aircraft business) - but with the relative small footprint of rad, that means sharp, tight bends. Difficult to create without the proper tools. Even though I'm not very good with fiberglass, I'm willing to try that material for my next build and design a shroud with the hoses and rad inbedded within.

I have a Koolance top-mount rad-pump assy. on one of my rigs - it did gave me some ideas.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old September 25, 2007, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3.0charlie View Post
I usually work with aluminum (being the Aircraft business) - but with the relative small footprint of rad, that means sharp, tight bends. Difficult to create without the proper tools. Even though I'm not very good with fiberglass, I'm willing to try that material for my next build and design a shroud with the hoses and rad inbedded within.

I have a Koolance top-mount rad-pump assy. on one of my rigs - it did gave me some ideas.
You wouldn't be able to do tight 90 deg bends, but you could get away with two 45 deg bends instead.
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old September 25, 2007, 06:49 PM
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3.0 "I kill SR2's" Charlie
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Exactly my point - the small foot print of the top case versus the size of a rad leaves very little place to design 2 45* bends and secure a bracket or shroud.

But again, it all depends on the thinkness of the material.
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Old September 25, 2007, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sswilson View Post
Case is aluminum, so no welding.

I suppose I could use rivets, but I much prefer standard screw/bolt with nuts so that I can easily take it apart if required.

I'm going to try out the SS stock tomorrow so we'll see what kind of stability / strength I get and how many I actually need.

What kind of case are you planning on using? I suppose a person could get some form of modders mesh to make a "rad case" if you didn't want to just do a flush top mount.

I haven't done much metal work with aluminum, but depending on the stock, it shouldn't be too hard to do straight bends if you wanted to make a full shroud similar to what you see on a kooldance topmount setup.
Hex screws would look super sharp if it contrasted against a stark silver.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old September 26, 2007, 03:10 PM
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Ok, I'm starting to have reservations about my original "drop the hoses down the back" design.




Not only would I need either a 90 deg fitting or elongated holes to bring the tubing into the case cleanly, I'm also wondering about the wisdom of having the tubing in the path of the "higher than ambient" air exiting from the PSU.

The air shouldn't have much of an affect on the water temp, but WC is all about extremes, so a little design flaw like that could have some effect, it's just a question of how much.

What do you folks think????

Would the hot air exiting from the PSU have any affect on the water temps? ( I suspect the tubing will be at least 1 1/2" from the PSU exhaust).
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Old September 26, 2007, 03:53 PM
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Default perhaps not the best

your using the same psu as me and it does vent a lot of warmer air at load.

Can you run the tube tight to the the corner and bring it in at an angle (not 90) under the psu. Have you got a top mounted psu? otherwise this is a silly suggestion.

Maybe covering the tubing that is exposed to the psu exhaust in silver paint or reflective material would help prevent the heat being transferred to the tubing.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old September 26, 2007, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magictorch View Post
your using the same psu as me and it does vent a lot of warmer air at load.

Can you run the tube tight to the the corner and bring it in at an angle (not 90) under the psu. Have you got a top mounted psu? otherwise this is a silly suggestion.

Maybe covering the tubing that is exposed to the psu exhaust in silver paint or reflective material would help prevent the heat being transferred to the tubing.
Yep, top mounted PSU, and unfortunately the 1/2 ID hose would probably kink if I tried to put a tight radius bend into it.

The more I think about it, the more I'm thinking of running the tubing straight down into the case through the plexi.
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Last edited by sswilson; September 26, 2007 at 04:12 PM.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old September 26, 2007, 04:27 PM
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Default oh right

Im afraid im not very familiar with the tubing your using RE kinks. I guess the angles are just too tight

Its a shame you cant expose the tubing to as much ambient air as possible though rather than running it straight into the lions den.
But then again perhaps dropping it straight through is the way to go. doubt it would make much difference given the lengths of tubing involved and flowrates.

They have really good waterchilling systems for the cold water tanks that are getting more and compact. Although they are still not practical for desktops yet! Maybe if you want a coldwater fishtank and a cold computer...sorry just being silly!
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