Another P182 Water Cooling Log
Kind of a new member here, but I thought I'd post this here for those who are like me and are starting water cooling for their first time.
I know the P182 isn't the best case for water cooling, but I bought it almost a year back and it's been great. I don't exactly want to spend another $150 on a HAF 932.
Anyway, moving on to the point of this. This will be my first water cooling attempt after almost 2 months or so of research and reading other logs. Here's the set up.
For those unaware of it, there is no need for a biocide as the tubing has a "built in" one. I'll let you guys know how this goes without any additives such as hydrx.
I won't have access to my new parts until next week, so I'll probably update then. For now, here are some internal pictures of the case.
My proposed set up... any problems?
For those curious of clearance between lower chamber fan and hard drives.
For now, I won't be doing any drilling (don't exactly have the tools for it, it's a long story).
Well, that's all I have for now. I'll keep updating and post some new pictures by next week.
As for my suggested loop, does everything look okay?:help:
I don't think I forgot anything... If I did, please let me know and I'll fix it.
All help is appreciated.
Well, finally got around to opening the package.
I can't believe they gave me the wrong colour of tube coils...
Unfortunately, it's late here, so this is all I have for today.
More pictures and updates tomorrow. Look forward to it. :thumb:
Alright, with a new day comes new pictures! Won't be typing much here since I know many of us barely take the time to read text anyway.
Forgot to take a picture of the GTZ packaging... so here's just a reflective picture.
Well that's all I have for now. I've done more, but too lazy to upload the pictures at the moment.
Will do some small flushing/ cleaning pictures, though while doing them, I forgot to take pictures. :doh: Will post the few that I have. Turns out it's one.
Well here come the cleaning and leak testing picture.
Filling the rad with hot water, doing some shaking, empty, repeat.
Final flush is done with distilled water.
Blocks were taken apart and brushed with a tooth brush to get rid of any residue under hot water. Rinsed with distilled.
Everything else was rinsed with distilled before being put together.
Mini loop put up for leak testing. Next few are just pictures of the loop.
First few minutes came up with some crazy leaks. Turns out all of them were caused because the barbs were not tight enough. Lesson learned?
A set if clamps I got were locked and thus I was unable to put clamps my pump... No leaks yet though. Will be buying some clamps from the hardware store or just order some more.
Been running for about 20 hours now, no leaks after being fixed.
Will not have access to my computer until about 2 more weeks. Updates will come then.
Look forward to it. :thumb:
Good start. When you say a bunch of Enzotech sinks, you'll need a lot of them on the 4870. IIRC I used about 12 on mine. Not as many as my GTX285 takes, mind you, with 16 ram sinks and 16 mosfet sinks. But more than I figured on originally.
You are not using the easiest case to work with.... here's a few pics of 2 builds I did using the P180 (a customer's) and my own P182. Advice? Use 3/8" tubing, and routing the tubing to the rad (using the back panel holes) will be very difficult not to bend it.
Interesting build.. Just when I was thinking of that Antec case genius, scroll down and he is there lol ^^
One suggestion, I was looking at your loop, if you could buy this http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...g-img_0528.jpg which is a Primochill Typhoon III Res, the mcp655 just sits inside..
Reason, since mentioned Charlie it's not the easiest case to work in.. that would mount in the 5 1/4 bay.. then you could mount the rad the way Charlie did.. the tubing comes from the top, goes straight to res, and loop continues from there.. Just a thought..
Do add some biocide to the distilled.. Sub'ed..
I believe the Asus one i bought uses an aftermarket cooler, and thus has it's own little mosfet heatsink as I've seen in a few reviews. I believe 1 pack of 8 should be enough, also bought a heatsink for the motherboard.
Can't switch to 3/8'' now... already purchased everything. :doh: But it's okay. I'll find away to work around it. Are you sure the tubes will kink if I use the standard mounting holes? I'm not sure how to go as to drilling two holes into the rear of the case. The only power tool I have available is a regular power drill with a few bits. Dremel is located somewhere else. Also, what did you use for the rubber grommets? I'll post some pictures and my results when the time comes.
I'm on a budget, so the typhoon III is a little too much for me. I'm not sure how I would use it in a single loop anyway. I also read a lot about all sorts of leaks on that guy and how some cases require you to hammer down some rails. As for the biocide, Primochill states...
Our special Anti-Microbial formula helps keep your cooling loop pristine—which keeps flow rates up, reduces maintenance, and just flat out looks better.
Will see if this holds true. :thumb:
Tune back in a week for updates, or just post anything you think I can do better on or suggestions.
No worries, I hear ya.. budget is budget.. Agreeable.
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...ing-setup.html There is another guide for you.. Do you hard drives in the first chamber, maybe you could remove that chamber and mount the pump there.. that's off course if you're not using it..
Don't forget, bitspower has 45 degree swivel and 90 degree fittings for the right bends and stuff, a little budget stretch sure.. but those can be real helpful..
Primochill tubing and distilled water is not enough to prevent growth. You need anti-algae stuff (PT Nuke), or specific liquids (Feser, Primochill, Swiftech all sell some).
The problem is not using the holes, but bending the tubing from the hole to the rad barb - this is a severe bend, and will probably result in a kink of the tube. You will need special 90* and 45* swivel barbs.
If you wish to drill holes up top a la P180 (my first pic), then you need a power drill with a step bit, and grommets to cover the hole edges. It can be done.
Yeah, those fittings look like they may come in handy. Will consider them when the time comes depending on how things work out. And yeah, I was on a $400 or so budget including everything, so I'm very close to the edge already. :biggrin:
Where do you buy the grommets from? I'm sure it's similar stuff to U channel tubing or that little piece of plastic used at the bottom of the top chamber of the P182. You know where I can get this stuff? As for the tubing, I quote Linus saying, "Primochill LRT tubing already contains a biocide. Do not add anything else (including PT_NUKE)"
On a side note, does anyone have any say for plumbers tape on the barbs? I remember someone saying never to use them as the barbs aren't designed for them.
Listen to Linus then.
Don't use teflon tape if the barbs have an o'ring.
Grommets can be found in the electrical isle of your favorite hardware store.
I'll shut up now.
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