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Old June 25, 2011, 08:40 PM
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Default My Statements speakers build

Hey guys,

So 3 weeks ago I had that moment in Iron Man when Tony Sparks says : "Yeah, I can fly." Well ... me it was more yeah I can build speakers!

I just finished building a pair of sealed TriTrix and wow! what a difference compared to my old Logitech speakers. They even destroy my Totem Dreamcatchers and costed me half the price!

So obv, I've decided to be stupid and attempt to build the Statements right away!

I'd like to thank biff and VulcanRider, thanks to their various posts I was able to answer many of my questions.

So all the crossover parts for the Statements are here, and the drivers are ordered! The next day it doesn't rain I'm running to Home Depot to get my MDF.

More to come!
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Last edited by ADay2Long; June 25, 2011 at 08:55 PM.
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Old June 25, 2011, 11:29 PM
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very nice, diy speakers are awesome, as long as you are willing to put in the work.
good luck with the rest of the build, any pics?

diy ftw
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Old June 26, 2011, 09:34 AM
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A couple pics of my TriTrix. Didn't take much construction pics, sorry.













YouTube - ‪TriTrix speakers testing‬‏

Will probably not finish them ... at least for now, I'll keep the money for the big papatwika speakers!
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Old June 26, 2011, 11:14 AM
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Tritrix to Statements... that's one hell of an upgrade!

I'm considering building statements too actually. I just got a set of RS TMWW 3ways up and running last week (sealed version with the Seas tweeter) since I already hade the req'd drivers and XO parts. I'm not sure I'm keeping them, more so just an experiment to see if the RS225's would do what I wanted for bass - and I think they do. I had a 3way that used RSS315's on the bottom end and the bass was awesome but got me into a lot of trouble since I usually listen to music late at night after everyone is in bed. I think the RS225's is a good compromise but they will still get the furnace vents rattling if I turn them up. However they look a little small which is another reason for wanting a WMTMW design. I'm still deciding if I want to shell out for those mids & tweets or do my own design next.

A couple words of caution or maybe just more of a heads up:
Apparently the 1337 mids are paper thin titanium and will crease of you push on them with your fingers so be gentle with them. Also from what I've read the ribbon tweeters are very fragile too. Vacuuming them of blowing air on them could tear the ribbon. I've seen people cover them up with painters masking tape to protect them during the build process. Did you read the notes regarding the new RS225-8's? Sound wise they are said to be a direct drop in for the older sheilded version that the Statements were designed around but require an adjustment to the box and tuning if you go with the ported version. The plans on Curt's site are for the RS225S-8's so you might want/need to make some adjustments. And be prepared the weight of these. My TMWW 3ways are ~60-70lbs, I hear the full size statements can get upwards of 100lbs! Probably a 2 person job to move them.

Make sure you take more pics this time! I'm looking forward to seeing them go together.
Ryan
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Old June 26, 2011, 11:37 AM
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Thanks for the heads up biff, I am aware these drivers are a lot more fragile than the budget Daytons involved in the TriTrix ... and at the price I paid for them I will be careful. Funny enough, Solen had W4-1337 ( <--- leet? ) for cheaper than PE!

I did read up on what Curt said about the new unshielded Daytons, but wasn't aware that they might require a different size cabinet. I'm still debating on ported vs sealed as I will 97% surely build a sub in the year to come. The sealed version makes it much more .... reasonable size wise?

Haven't found many who built the sealed version, and apparently the ported versions have more than enough bass to them. Still debating. I'll try to look into new dimensions for the unshielded version.

And even the TriTrix are no feather weight ... both my Dreamcatcher together weight the same as one TriTrix. But I'm blown away by how much profit (the manufacturer or re-seller not sure) must make on speakers!!!!! For half the price I got 4x the performance ... granted not everyone can build speakers, just happy I can.

How do you like your TMWW ? The shape reminds me of the Mini-Statements ... but I guess that is a standard shape for a TMWW design.

Btw, if that is you in your avatar you remind me of Patrick Roy.
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Old June 26, 2011, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADay2Long View Post
I did read up on what Curt said about the new unshielded Daytons, but wasn't aware that they might require a different size cabinet. I'm still debating on ported vs sealed as I will 97% surely build a sub in the year to come. The sealed version makes it much more .... reasonable size wise?
Sealed make integration with a sub easier but for music you might find you don't need a sub if you go ported. For HT I don't think it much matters. You'll need a sub to dig deep for the full effect on movies and integration I don't think much matters. You'll be crossing low enough that the only content down there is shit blowing up. YMMV

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADay2Long View Post
And even the TriTrix are no feather weight ... both my Dreamcatcher together weight the same as one TriTrix. But I'm blown away by how much profit (the manufacturer or re-seller not sure) must make on speakers!!!!! For half the price I got 4x the performance ... granted not everyone can build speakers, just happy I can.
As DIY we're not worrying about profit margins, increased shipping/packaging costs due to weight, assembly time, trying to save a few extra $$$'s vs. quality XO parts, etc., etc.. The Tritrix are an uber budget design and at the low end of the price scale the margin isn't so big vs. commercial but it gets wider as you go up in price. There's nothing budget about the Statements!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADay2Long View Post
How do you like your TMWW ? The shape reminds me of the Mini-Statements ... but I guess that is a standard shape for a TMWW design.
I found them a little bright for my taste and had some slight issues with sibilance - the the designer did warn they were voiced to sound 'forward'. I found in the thread that someone adjusted the padding resistors for the tweeter slightly so I made those changes. So far it sounds like a good improvement for such a simple tweek - gotta love being able to do those tweaks to tailor the speakers to your own preferences! I'll be able to let them get a little loud tonight so I'll see how they do now at higher volume levels.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADay2Long View Post
Btw, if that is you in your avatar you remind me of Patrick Roy.
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Old June 26, 2011, 03:12 PM
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Please do keep a nice worklog of the project, with lots of pics, if possible. It's always a pleasure!

Best of luck with the project; if it weren't for my wife and I recently having our first child, and even more recently buying our first house, I would definitely be fighting off the build bug...<sigh> I'll just have to watch and enjoy living vicariously!
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Old June 26, 2011, 03:52 PM
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I've left my dad go through his music collection with my new TriTrix speakers and I've got him on-board lol, he's really looking forward to what the Statements will sound like, and he might want a pair also. That means he will help me equip myself with tools to handle the much MUCH bigger Statements ...sweet! New table saw hopefully !!!

I want the ported for the full sound experience, but the sealed version considerably drops the size of the thing. Since the volume of the cabinet with the unshielded 225s can be dropped to 80 liters maybe I can make something work. I'd want a rear port also so I could avoid installing spikes on it.

And thanks Vulcan since my TriTrix are basically just a copy of yours! Except I shopped around and got some T-nuts from Solen Eletronics instead of gluing regular nuts. Lowes had some small enough ... 2 for a buck fifty ... Solen has them for $.18 each.

Anyways I'll try to keep you guys updated, drivers should get here Tuesday, might start working on crossover layout tomorrow or Tuesday. When I first listened to one of my favorite singer on my TriTrix, I cried, can't wait for the big papas!
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Old June 26, 2011, 05:05 PM
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The 80L size is the reduced size for the ported box using the new drivers, sealed will probably be around 50L I'm guessing but sealed box size really isn't that critical (within reason). Also it's easier to make a ported box into a sealed - just plug up the port.

You don't want to change the box physical dimensions at all so your decision sealed vs. ported shouldn't be based on that. The width HAS to remain the same as well as the drivers location on the baffle, also the depth of the box has to remain the same as since the path through the mid tunnel and around the side of the speaker has to remain unchanged. The height of the tweeters should be at the same height as your ears when you're sitting - when you're 'critical listening'. To do this you add or remove from the bottom of the box and if you need less box volume then make a false bottom inside the cab. The resulting 'pocket' in the bottom makes a very nice spot to stuff an XO into as well. Don't forget to subtract the volume that the ports, drivers, mid tunnels, extra bracing, etc from the total box volume if you recalculate the size.

I know the sealed drawing shows a smaller speaker but it's not like you're trying to reduce physical size so you can set them up on your desk like your tritrix. But those smaller cabs would require silly little ~18" stands to get the tweeters up to the proper height and those stands would have to be very sturdy as it would be a very top heavy setup. I'd just make them the full floor standers any way and add the partition as explained above to adjust the box volume. Unless you think you'll like that look then built the sealed version as per plans if you go that route.

No problem rear porting as these have to be placed about a foot at least (but more is better) from the wall anyway.

Sorry to come across as a know it all as I'm far from it. Just trying to make you aware of some of the finer details just in case you're not already.
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Old June 26, 2011, 05:21 PM
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Well it's a good thing as you are confirming what I have read. Minimal optimal distance from the wall is apparently around 18" but you could get away with only 12", but the soundstage would be slightly affected, or so I've read.

I wasn't sure about which way to go about reducing the size, but my guess would have been height also, and I would never dare to reposition the drivers. I think I'll simply cut some of the top portion off. I want a rear facing port as I want them to sit flat on the ground and I'm not a big fan of the base in the original design.

Good idea about ported vs sealed to simply plug the hole if I want to go that way, seems like the easiest solution. If the current enclosure is around 100 liters (i think) I'm guessing it's safe to calculate how much to remove based on size alone ... not sure how to explain it. Volume is length x width x height. Current setup with the mid tunnels is ~100 liters (i'll look up the real number eventually) so if I recalculate the height for 80 liters, and I remove some of the room at the bottom, I wouldn't have to go in a complicated volume calculation with the mid tunnels. Don't know if I'm explaining this properly ... but for the money I'm spending on these I'll try to get some form of approval from Curt or Jim over at the HT forum.

I mean I understand how it works and how the crossover/driver/enclosure are all related together and I can very well follow a plan and build it, just don't know how to calculate all those fancy frequencies. Just feels good to be in the workshop aka garage instead of sitting in front of a computer all day ... but oh GAWD, something else to spend money on, thank god the designs don't improve/go obsolete every 6 months!
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