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  #31 (permalink)  
Old January 15, 2010, 09:30 AM
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Ya but if I'm not mistake, the CPU is not idling in the bios. I means he run at full fsb or block speed. like in the case of the op the cpu is at 2,66 Ghz in the bios no ? When exactly the power management is active, at post or after load the driver in Windows ? I'm pretty sure I read few time than the CPU is not idling in the BIOS , or I get mixup .
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old January 15, 2010, 09:31 AM
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MarkOne ... Will RealTemp or CoreTemp require me to jump through hoops to calibrate them or are they realtively easy to use?
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Old January 15, 2010, 09:37 AM
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"the CPU is not idling in the bios" ... interesting for sure ... learning as I go

So my next question is what do we mean by "idling"? I had assumed with no OS running that the thing was just sitting there not straining to do anything.
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Old January 15, 2010, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trolleydriver View Post
"the CPU is not idling in the bios" ... interesting for sure ... learning as I go

So my next question is what do we mean by "idling"? I had assumed with no OS running that the thing was just sitting there not straining to do anything.
I think markone is a little confused, but what I think he means is the EIST is not active when the PC is in the BIOS (pre-OS). Aka, your system not using speedstep to reduce its speed and temperature unless it's idling in Windows. You'll probably get lower Idle temperatures in Windows because of this.

Any particular preference for your fans? (Colors, leds, cost, etc).
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Old January 15, 2010, 09:46 AM
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CMetaphor ... No need for fancy colors or leds (don't mind a subtle blue led though). Not sure what these things cost ... are ther good ones in the $10 Cdn range or am I off base?
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Old January 15, 2010, 09:50 AM
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CMetaphor ... No need for fancy colors or leds (don't mind a subtle blue led though). Not sure what these things cost ... are ther good ones in the $10 Cdn range or am I off base?
$10 or less for decent silent ones, $15 or more for "ultra" silent fans.
That being said, I'd go for the Coolermaster R4 Blue LED fan. I'd suggest running them off a little fan controller or using 7v adapter though, since i find them a little too loud @ max.
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Old January 15, 2010, 09:52 AM
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It seems to me that there are a lot of things restricting the air flow through the front of the Antec 300, especially passive air flow with no fan. First there is the outside grill, then behind that is a washable filter and then there are the two metal grills where the fans are mounted.
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Old January 15, 2010, 09:55 AM
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Use the R4's from Coolermaster. They have insane static Pressure and will pull air through any obstruction no problem

ST
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old January 15, 2010, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMetaphor View Post
I think markone is a little confused, but what I think he means is the EIST is not active when the PC is in the BIOS (pre-OS). Aka, your system not using speedstep to reduce its speed and temperature unless it's idling in Windows. You'll probably get lower Idle temperatures in Windows because of this. .
Me confuse ( all the time )

that's it..... it's what I means since the start.. the OP compare the temp with data where the EIST is active. Only after Installing Windows he will be able to compare with the results of the other one.

all true I agree than some more ventilation is need .


I have never be good to learn all those technical therms. to much of them, changing every minute

By the way CM.... how come you seams so literate with Intel technology......

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Old January 15, 2010, 11:12 AM
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MarkOne ... Are CoreTemp and RealTemp easy to use? Do they require any fancy calibration? Thanks.
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