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Originally Posted by Dr_BenD_over  A couple of day's with that X2 eh? |
I've been itchin for another water setup for quite awhile anyways. heheh
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Originally Posted by jdrom17 Not really sure why your getting a blue dye bomb and getting Feser One which is clear and under UV it's blue. You might as well just get blue Feser One. Less additives.
I'm pretty sure the RadBox is basically universal, though the Swiftech MCR320 performs better than the Stealth IIRC.
And no CPU block? Lotta money to dump just for GPU cooling...
I'd go with the dark nickel plated Bitspower barbs, but that's just me. |
I want it real blue & besides the extra is only $5.
I went with that rad as it looks to be slimmer than the others to save on space out back if that's where I end up mounting it. Which i'm not even sure of. I might even get a new case for this(more than likely will).
That's why i'm going with a triple rad so I can ad the CPU in later when it's necessary to do so but right now with the 45nm chips heat isn't really an issue right. Maybe once I go quad & start needing cooling for OCing then I'll ad it.
I was going to use those barbs but judging by the pics the length of the screw in looks half as deep as the DD ones right.
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Originally Posted by phil3_66666 yesthe radbox work on black ice rad(i have one on a black ice pro rad) in fact it work with any 120mm rad
and just like that.. for my own experience i dont use anymore primochill dye and hose clamp(or other plastic hose clamp).. if you buy a pre-mixed collant(excep for primochill collant if you want color) you dont need dye anyway.. be the way the best dye i ever use is the d-tek one/feser one and for hose clamp go at canadiantire buy some plomber hose clamp |
Yeah I want it BLUE though lol.
I usually do use those metal clamps but aren't needed really & look horrendous imo in a system.