More questions about liquid cooling :o
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February 26, 2013, 11:10 PM
Join Date: Sep 2011
Originally Posted by
1. First one is just a reservoir, second one is a pump top (attaches directly to the pump). Usually having the reservoir attached to your pump is a bit safer as the pump never runs dry. It does make it harder to position within your case though depending on the size of things.
2. Mainly for looks, it also gives some added support due to the weight of the block. Typically speaking it does nothing for cooling as it has no thermal pads/compound. Cards that have memory on the backside though, then the backplate usually acts as a heatsink for those.
3. Nothing really, buy what you like and what fits in your design. Just make sure it's brass/copper construction so that you aren't mixing metals in your loop.
As long as you know what you're doing, it would make more sense to get the reservoir separate right? I don't care to "play it safe", I'll be reading up to make sure I do everything right.
The "backplates" would be facing up top right? What about the cards that cover the whole card such as the Murderbox computers? Is that a clear backplate..?
Originally Posted by
Purchasing a rad requires you have some basic info up front.
the number of water blocks your going to be using. At least 1 120 rad core/block. This is the bare minimum. Two cores per block would be much better.
the number of fins/inch in the rads will determine what fans are needed. Low density rads (8-14 fins/in) work well with 800-1200 rpm fans, medium density Rads (20 fins/in) require 1200-1800 rpm fans, and high density rads (30 fins/in) will require high speed fans over 1800 rpm with good pressure.
How does the backplate give support to the card?
So the higher the density of the fins (meaning more fins per area), the higher static pressure you need?
Do radiators usually state how many fins per inch or would I have to look em up? I know some specs aren't always listed for hardware.
Originally Posted by
All of your questions (and more) are answered at daz's site
Dazmode.com |Canadian Watercooling Store, Product Reviews and Forum
He has soooooo many videos, and he is an authority on water cooling.
Always get the thickest radiator your case can handle. I know you said you're going for aesthetics, but what's more pleasing, a quiet computer or a tiny thin rad with 40 db fans on it? This way you can minimize FPI (fins per inch) yet still maintain good heat dissipation. Lower FPI rads need less air flow and thus you can use really really really quiet fans. In my opinion, the whole purpose of watercooling is a silent build that offers superior cooling.
Many people run push/pull fans (one fan on either side) on their radiators. This doesn't help performance significantly and i only recommend this if you want to show off your fans or if you're trying to shave off one or two degrees at a time. There are many expensive things you can do to slightly improve the effectiveness of your loop. Most people recommend fans in a pull configuration, i prefer push as then the side of the radiator with no fans on it isn't exposed. Fins bend easy.
Radiators are one component you really have to flush out well before using. Most have slag in them. This is nasty stuff like flux and heavy metal residue. You can flush it out with tap water as long as you then rinse it out with deionized water three times after your put tap water in your radiator. Tap water will ruin components if you live in some cities like Edmonton, so rinse it out well with the DI water.
I see. Thank you for this input. I don't mind getting a thicker radiator as long as it doesn't get in the way of aesthetics, so I will go for the thickest one possible without it ruining my aesthetics. I plan on getting 2 radiators, a 240 or 360 and another 360 most likely.
So you recommend putting fans under the radiator as opposed to putting em on top, that way they do show. What do you mean the fins bend easy exactly?
I'll make sure to go through a thorough rinsing process.
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