EVGA DARK + Car Radiator (Renamed)
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December 11, 2012, 01:43 PM
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ottawa Valley, Ontario
My System Specs
So far I have spent $200 MOBO, $150 RAM, $130 PSU. About $500 so far and she is shaping up quite nicely! I will be reusing my Audigy 4 PRO. Hopefully I can reuse my 4X160GB Raptors &Scythe Fan Controller, Noctua 120's, DVD Burner. I was thinking of buying a new case but I will be spending too much money on everything else. No biggy, I can paint the inside of my Antec 900 to spruce it up.
*SEE PEE YOU*
I have not decided between a 3820 or a 3930k. I am leaning to the 3820 as I can still OC and for what I do I will likely not see a bennefit of 50% more cores and cache. Fully unlocked is cool, but for nearly double the price I am pretty sure I will rock a 3820 for now. My E8400 did fantastic on Air. Im sure I had an amazing CPU due to its high OC on air. But she was running hot. She had a TDP of 65W. A 3820 has a TDP of 130W. I think I want to go with water cooling this time around.
I've read some good things on the XSPC Raystorm water block. It seems to have great performance and a great price!
XSPC Raystorm LGA1155/1366/1156/2011/775 CPU Water Block G1/4 Threads Copper w/ Blue LED - Black
I have grown to enjoy a quiet PC. This seems like a great with PLENTY of headroom in case my water loop grows AND it has a speed controller! I have seen a few people use dual pumps in series in case of failure, but I should be able to set my BIOS to handle PLAN B (though I may add another one in the future for extra protection).
Swiftech MCP655 12V Industrial Water Cooling Pump 1/2IN Barbs
My case fans are all Noctua and attached to a speed controller. She will be a quiet machine, especially when you see my RAD of choice!
Right now the plan is to use an AC Condenser out of my E36 BMW. The AC does not work (no pressure in the lines) and the front bumper is removed for repairs. It will take 10 minutes to unbolt and hack two rubber lines. I'm well aware how AC systems work, and the charge has been depleted. There is no R134a to leak out. I posted about running a MASSIVE fanless ran a while ago. I was pointed to one of SQUEETARD's builds.
Why do I want to do this? Reasons are listed in descending order of importance
1 I'M CHEAP! If I had to buy a rad I would not be using water cooling. $300 (pump, block, rad, fittings, etc) would be too much for me to swallow right now.
2 - QUIET. As time goes on I am appreciating a quiet room (or rather a lack of ambient noise) more and more.
3 - If I find the Rad is not able to keep my system cool enough when I OC I can easily add a fan!
4 - It seems neat to me. I like being different.
I've come to terms with the financially devastating failure of my old PSU & I am now very excited for the new build! I will add a few pictures tonight or tomorrow.
My System Specs
3820 @ 4.5GHz
Mushkin 16GB (4X4) @ 2000MHz ~ 10-12-12-28
2 x Powercolor 290X LCS - Liquid Cooling System (Each for $180 below peak price)
OCZ Vertex 4 - 120GB (My first SSD. WOOOOOO!) 4TB Seagate
Antec TPQ 1200W
Antec 900, 4 x Noctua NFP12, extra fans & a car radiator. Out of my old Nissan.
720P TV (Temporary)
Win 7 64Bit
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