View Single Post
  #8 (permalink)  
Old July 6, 2012, 07:48 AM
Griezz Griezz is offline
Top Prospect
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 55

My System Specs

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dzzope View Post
your buying a Matx board but have chosen high end parts cos you plan on oc'ing and possibly doing x-fire.. and your case takes atx boards..
This REALLY doesn't make sense to me.. Get an atx board and leave yourself more wiggle room for expansion and better heat and power management than a matx one..
Okay, I admit that I got overwhelmed by the number of available boards, so I did ask for some help. Yes, I was intrested in moderate overclocking for gaming, which is why I was directed towards the Z77 boards. I chose ASUS because of their name and reliability. THAT led me to a number of choices. Initially, I was looking at the Z77 Sabretooth, but later found out that its thermal armor could actual cause problems rather than fix them

So why did I choose the Maximus Gene as my fallback? Simply because, of all the ASUS Z77 choices, it has the best built-in sound. The fact that the Maximus is a mATX board was only an afterthought that allowed me to consider mATX cases, but it wasn't a primary concern.

As an aside, if you have suggestions for a different motherboard or manufacturer, pease share. Open to changing if benefits worth it.

Quote:
H100 is very over-priced for the extra performance it gives vs say the H60.. IMO you will get a minimal increase in over-clocking from the slight reduction in temperature and not worth the price.
You already stated that you want to OC, are you looking to push the most you can get from the chip or are you happy with decent 24/7 oc (around the 4.5ghz mark)?
If you are looking for the stable 24/7 clock, you could drop the hydro cooler totally and use a cheaper air solution that will still give the cooling you need.
I have no problems admitting that I am a total noobin terms of both water-cooling and overclocking, so I went with the "biggest and best" in order to get breathing room for safety. Yes, I am looking to overclock to a stable level.No, as a beginner, I have no itention of trying to break any records. I might still go for the H60 as insurance, but if a stable 4.5gHz can be acheived safely with a non-liquid cooler, while not killing me with fan noise, there is a Noctua NH-D14 that I have been looking at that is supposed to be pretty good. The question is whether the sound it does make is tolerable compared to the fan in the H60 radiator.

Quote:
The PSU.. your kinda in no-mans-land with 750 watt, it's a lil more than you need but not enough for x-fire.. 650 for single card or 850 for 2. (minimums, 750 is nice bit of head room for single card, 900+ for duals)
Yeah, I was looking to get a 650W originally; I suppose that should be sufficient headroom.

Quote:
Hdd's, do you need your storage to be fast? if not (for media that doesn't require a large amount of speed) then get the green.
That is a good question. Most of my time is spent gaming. My original intent was to have the program files on the SSD and the data files & caches on the HDD. However, there is a question of how much slower the game would be in loading levels from a 5400rpm drive compared to a 7200rpm drive. A number of peope have advised me to stick with the 1TB Black. Hell, if I need more, I can always go for an external drive.

Quote:
Blu-ray? Really?.. IMO again not worth the money.. How often do you plan on buying or renting BR movies?
If you had a large and large resolution monitor you would see the difference but on a standard 1920x1080 monitor or tv, stick to dvd or nothing. Obviously personal needs but why spend if you won't use it.
Actually, while most of my computing is done on a 22" 1080 monitor, the system wil be next to a 32" HDTV. Besides, having the computer pay Blu-rays means one less piece of electronics filling up my shelves.

Quote:
16GB ram? are you doing rendering? video editing? VM's? If no and this is a gaming and general use rig, stick to 8.. you won't use more and if you do just pick up a second kit.
no need for 2133 either.. again you won't see a difference unless benching.. G.SKILL Ripjaws X F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 Memory - G.Skill - F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL
Memory is another area that I am hazy in, but it seems to me that 16GB would stil be a good choice. See, it is not for a particular program that I would need the extra RAM. It is that I would often be doing a lot of multitasking. While playing "Skyrim", I would have a few web windows open in the backgroud for reference, while my e-mail reader is also open; at the same time, I may have uTorrent doing a few downlads. So... still wrong to go for 16 Gb?

As for the speed, I originalky planned for DDR3-1600, but I thought it might be better to go for faster RAM just for OC purposes. However, I will probably go back to 1600.

Quote:
The GPU is a lil on the low side for the spend.
IMO, save else-where and drop in a 670 instead.

Again this depends on the use of the computer.. what you will be doing is very important to deciding what to buy.
Most recent games I have been playing are Skyrim, Mass Effect 3 and some MMOs; possible next game I might go for is Arkham City. That will bet indicate the level of graphics needs. As for the rest of my computer usage, the majority is Internet searching & watching multimedia, so no great strain on any modern system.

Quote:
Overall I still can't see why it's costing so much. Have you price-matched? I think the memoryexpress price beat is better.. not a Canadian so would be better to ask someone else's input on that..

GL with the build and don't forget to add intended use and resolution etc
(if it's gaming then the kind of games too)
Shortly after I started looking into getting a new system, I ran across THE BEST website for pricing ever: pcpartspicker.com.
With it, I can pick a part, sort the database using manufacturer and other options, can instantly see if a part is compatible, and get a price comparison using TigerDirect, NCIX, Newegg and others.

However, I should mention that I do prefer to get all my parts from the same dealer, even if I might save a few dollars at another place. Furthermore, I prefer sealing the deal in person wherever possible, which means focusing on the places which have outlets near where I live: NCIX and TigerDirect. I am willing to lose a few bucks on store differentials if I can save on shipping or time wastedwaiting for delivery.

I will take your advice into considration, though, and will produce an updated build.
Reply With Quote