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Old March 21, 2011, 04:15 AM
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Rison Rison is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Truro, NS
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I wouldn't run the tubing the way you have it. Run the tubing with the least length required.

Temperature wise, it makes 0 difference if you put the Rad or Waterblocks first. No difference, i've tested this many times.

Go back to your idea of the 150 res, instead of 250. 250 just stores more water.. 150 takes up less room. It's not like you have to fill this thing once a week with a 150..

I prefer to have my pump underneath my res - because it makes for a shorter run, and you don't have to mount your pump to anything, you can hang it off the res. I borrowed the idea from another HWC'er, from their pictures and will always setup my loops this way.
In your first picture, the pump would be mounted at #3.

If N is your inlet to your pump, and M is your outlet (where the water flows out of..), then I would go:

M > G > H > F > E > A > B > K > L > J > I > N.
That is the most efficient tube run.

You will not be able to cross from G to F, it's impossible. There are 4 barb connections on the GPU block, two on each side, and stops for the other side (if that makes sense) so you can do a straight run from card to card.
On the newer EK 150/250 resevoirs (version 2), you can use the top plug to input from your rad - they have an internal tube so it doesn't do the "waterfall" effect. If you have a version 1, you can use an angled adapter at J to input from the rad.

If I were to build a loop from scratch, I would buy a pump, and the pumptop accessory with resevoir attached.. it's the smallest footprint available, and most efficient.

Pump: EK-DCP 4.0 High Performance Water Pump EK-DCP 4.0 [EK-DCP 4.0] - $59.99 : DazMode, Canadian PC Water Cooling and Modding Store
Pump top / res: EK-Reservoir Combo for DCP 4.0 Pump Only EK-Reservoir Combo DCP 4.0 [Combo DCP 4.0] - $37.99 : DazMode, Canadian PC Water Cooling and Modding Store

If you don't like the EK pump, you could go with the MCP655 + pumptop setup.
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