Project Water FTW
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January 6, 2011, 05:44 AM
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Halifax, NS
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Hey, that stuff looks familiar!
As for the loop, looks like solid theory. I used to fiddle with which block went first.. until I realized it doesn't matter, and the best way to set it up is which ever is the shortest path (which is how you set up)
As for the resevoir, I did the exact same thing with placement but used zip ties instead of the velcro (which is why there was velcro in the box I think)
What I recommend, is to inset the res to the front of the case.. then having your fill port at the top.. and having your inlet from the rad the top barb on the side, and the exit to the pump being the bottom barb on the side. By moving your res closer to the front, you dont have to bend the tubes at hard angles when routing them.
The temptation is to have your rad connect to the res at the top - which I debated for a long while myself.. but then your fill port would be on the top barb on the side.. that could work, but I was afraid of a "waterfall" effect when the res got lower with water, and that it could push air bubbles into the loop.
That entire reasoning above, is why I bought the EK 250 res.
Your drain port should be at the lowest point - the T fittings work good for those (i'd probably put it after the pump)
That rad does hold a lot of water, be sure to run it for 2-4 hours.. then tilt it to remove more air, then another 2h, than tilt/shake it gently again.. (rinse/repeat) until all the air is out. I would have everything mounted except the rad when I leak tested.
I have 1/2 bottle of swiftech hydrx I should have given ya.. totally forgot about that. It's not really worth driving anywhere for, or mailing for that matter.
Anywho, good luck and post the progress.
I'll learn to manage my anger, when people learn to manage their stupid.
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