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Old December 30, 2009, 07:17 PM
miggs78 miggs78 is offline
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Originally Posted by Spblue View Post
Thanks a lot for all your replies! Now I have even *more* questions!

Thanks for the fluid tip. I had absolutely no idea how much fluid went into a standard GPU/CPU/RES/RAD cooling loop. I had picked the distilled water because a lot of "how-to" guides specify that you should always flush your new water components (rad, blocks, etc) before putting them in a real loop, to remove possible impurities. I figured I'd just connect everything together with one end in the sink and run some distilled water through. Since I had no idea how much would be needed, I figured more was better than not enough.

I will only get a single bottle of fluid then, but for the cleaning part, am I missing something or can I just use tap water? I was afraid that having some residue in there might interfere with something...
Well for just flushing, cleaning, just use boiling water (tap water works too) to clean everything, you mostly just have to clean the rad, cpu block and pump.. the res and the EK gpu blocks are see through, especially the EK blocks are pure quality, by god I've never seen any dirt or need to clean out the block, it's sparkling clean everytime I used one.

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As for the CPU block and rad, I'm pretty set on getting the Heatkiller and TFC Xchanger... From all the reviews I've read, these two were pretty much on top as far as performance. Since I'd like to run at 4.2Ghz 24/7 (unless I get unlucky with my cpu ), I want every chance on my side. What I'm unsure of is the EK D5 top... Is it worth getting? I added it because some review sites mention it helps the flow, and it comes with G1/4 so I can screw in standard compression fittings (I'd really like to use comp fittings for everything, since I'm afraid of not securing tubes properly and such).
The Feser rads are pretty good performing rads, since you mentioned a budget of $500, the swiftech one was perfect.. it does perform quite well too and not too expensive, but if you're set your sights on the Feser, go for it.. it's a darn good rad... As for the EK D5 Top, yes you're right it increases the flow and you can use standard fittings, honestly it's not all that lots of flow, so you're temps will not improve all that much, as for fittings, those barbs on the mcp655 are solid plastic, so unless you really take out your hammer, they ain't breaking, and you can just use regular clamps or zip ties to secure the tubing to the barb.. You would be saving good chunk of $$ really..

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Well, aren't the TFC fittings from Dazmode cheaper? In my list, I'm getting 8 straight ones for $48 (so $6 each), but the rotary ones are $11 each though. I'm thinking I should only need two, for the gpu block...
Yes I was blind lol.. I forgot to notice the 2x fittings, I thought each pack of 4 costed $40.xx.. Sorrie.. :p

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The P182 has no window, so UV tubing won't give me much. Clear tubing will be fine I think, plus I think that with the black fluid it should look cool for when I'll actually open my case to look at it.
Clear tubing for sure, unfortunately something I've noticed is getting clear tubing is getting rather hard nowadays, lots of places stock more colored and UV tubing then clear (just what I've been noticing) others might have different opinions..

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For the fans, I'm already using 7 Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F 1600RPM fans in my case. I'm thinking I'll probably be able to get away with only one left at the back of the case, and the 6 others on the rad in push/pull. If I run them at 7V instead of 12V, they should be near completely silent... I'll have to do some testing. If they're too noisy or won't allow me to clock my cpu high enough silently, I'll look into some of the latest fans.
Sure should work, btw those S-Flex fans are probably one of the best on Rads for sure, but since I've never had a feser rad or couldn't ever afford one ..:( I'm unsure if you need high cfm fans on feser rads, since they are twice as thick as swiftech ones.. Daz could asnwer better..

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I still got a tube and a half of Shin-Etsu X23-7783D leftover, so that should cover my needs for now. About those drain/fill ports though... How does that work? From what I could see, the Swiftech res comes with 2 plugs for the ports... do I need anything special to drain it? I'm still unsure how the whole draining thing works...
You don't necessarily need those, if you're just using one loop from the swiftech res (if it's the rev 2 of that res), and depending on if you use the bottom port, if you don't use the bottom port, you could get yourself a tube plug (I think that's the name) or a danger den fill port or similar that plugs the tube, so simply have a tube from the res run downwards, so when you drain just open it and tada.. hek you even gave me an idea for my loop :p

For the thermal paste, I've never used Shin-Estu, so dunno if its non-conductive, you're better off getting yourself a tube of arctic ceramique or arctic cooling 2 (recommended) or from Daz the gelid paste works pretty good too.. I'm also not too sure if EK started giving more thermal pads nowadays, I know with my EK4870 block, I only got one piece of it, which some I spoiled (accidentally) and the remaining got lost somehow.. he sells the pads for the blocks, better off getting a pad odd Daz..
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